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flowers in early summer and is the apt
location of the University of Art.
Take one of the countless seats that
surround it, sip an iced coffee and try
your hand at Chinese chess while tak-
ing in the tranquil atmosphere. Be sure
to hunt out the eerie 200-year-old ruin
of Tang Tho Lau (a disused imperial re-
cords bureau), just off Dinh Tien Hoang
street before hopping over the Ngu Ha
canal for a fresh fruit juice at Cafe Then
(63 Le Trung Dinh street). Established
in 2012 by local artist Mr. Tuan, the
café not only serves as a relaxing spot
for a cool beverage, but also as a center
for Hue’s contemporary arts scene.
Tuan’s ear-to-ear smile will make
you feel instantly at home, and if you
ask nicely he’ll take you back to his
workshop for a chance to see what he’s
currently working on.
Feeling like a world away from the
Imperial Citadel, but in fact just on the
other side of Le Duan street, leafy Kim
Long Ward is a great place to get lost
down the small paths and alleyways
that snake through the area. Land here
was originally fairly cheap, so families
could afford to buy larger plots and
construct idyllic residential complexes.
Some of Vietnam’s finest ancient gar-
den houses can be found here, such as
the architectural beauty at 31 Nguyen
Chi Thanh. The area is also home to
plenty of temples, restaurants and - like
in all areas of outstanding beauty in
Hue - coffee shops.
Kim Long is also the best place to
sample two of Hue’s great speciality
foods –
banh uot thit nuong
and
bun
thit nuong
- at the famous Huyen Anh
restaurant (52/4 Kim Long; open all
day). Ask any local and they will point
you in the right direction for some of
Hue’s greatest culinary treats.
To the east of the citadel lies bus-
tling Phu Cat Ward and Chi Lang street,
once a vibrant trading center for Chi-
nese merchants. Chi Lang street may
be the most architecturally varied in
Hue, with French colonial villas, Viet-
namese terraced houses, bright red
Chinese temples and the odd Soviet
inspired construction all making ap-
pearances amongst the modern Viet-
namese designs.
The Chinese temples with their
imposing red façades, large gates and
Chinese script are rarely visited, but it
is usually possible to find someone who
will open up the gate for you to have a
look around inside. In keeping with the
Chinese theme, you may be fortunate
enough to catch one of Hue’s many
dragon and lion dance troupes practic-
ing within their courtyards.
Da Thao (139 Chi Lang street)
makes a great place to stop for a cof-
fee, serving up some of the city’s fin-
est (and cheapest) brews to its loyal
patrons. More of Hue’s culinary gems
can be sampled nearby, with a hugely
Hue is famous for its cuisine, and with good reason; the
following are some of the best places to try it out:
NOODLES
Banh Uot Thit Nuong
Grilled pork and local herbs rolled in flat noodle paper
with sweetened fish sauce.
Best enjoyed at Huyen Anh, 52/4 Kim Long street.
Open all day.
Bun Bo Hue
Spicy vermicelli rice noodle soup with lightly cooked
beef flavoured with lemon grass.
Best enjoyed in the afternoon on Nguyen Du street
from around 3-7pm. In the evening try Ba Nga on Mai
Thuc Loan street from around 8pm until late.
Bun Thit Nuong
Dry vermicelli rice noodle salad with grilled pork,
sweetened fish sauce and peanut and sesame sauce.
Best enjoyed at Huyen Anh (see above) or in front of
Đong Ba Market from about 3-8pm.
Com, Bun Hen
Wet rice/noodles served with local river mussels.
Best enjoyed at any one of the small restaurants on Con
Hen Island, accessed from Nguyen Sinh Cung street.
Banh Canh
Thick tapioca noodles in a fish and seafood broth, usu-
ally served with river fish or crab.
Best enjoyed anywhere with a sign! Everyone has their
own special place for Banh Canh and the quality is
good almost everywhere. If in doubt look for packed
out places or ask a local.
SPECIALTY CAKES
Banh ram it - banh beo - banh loc - banh nam
An unusual mixture of rice flower, crushed shrimp,
pork fat and sweetened spicy fish sauce, Hue’s unique
savoury cakes are near impossible to translate into
English- even the word cake seems unsuitable. Bet-
ter to hunt these out and try for yourself. A number
of restaurants serving these can be found on Nguyen
Binh Khiem street.
VEGETARIAN FOOD
Some of the best vegetarian food in the country can be
found in Hue. A number of cheap and cheerful family
run restaurants can be found on Han Thuyen Street,
or try Lien Hoa next to the buddhist monestary at 9
Le Quy Don.
HUE’S CULINARY TREATS
THUA THIEN-HUE IN THE SPOTLIGHT