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a print of the rat performing a dragon
dance which I hope will bring me joy
and luck, while my friend selected a
print of the Rat Wedding in the hope
that she will find her dream man in the
near future.
Leaving Dong Ho village, we drove
along the Duong River dyke towards But
Thap pagoda, just 2km from the village.
The pagoda was built under the dynasty
of King Tran Thanh Tong (1258-1278)
and rebuilt in 1647 in the Le Dynasty.
Passing through its gate, then a
bell tower, we reached the main com-
plex. There are more than 50 statues
of different sizes, including the Triad
Buddha, Manjusri on a blue lion and
Samantabhadra on a white elephant.
The most remarkable is a thousand-
handed and thousand-eyed Bodhisattva
Kwan Yin, also known as the Goddess
of Mercy, which is described as a sculp-
tural masterpiece of Vietnam.
The pagoda also impressed us with
its small stone bridge located charm-
ingly in the middle of a tiny lotus pond.
In the garden, I found a huge white rock
stupa named But Thap by King Tu Duc
in 1876 when, on a field research tour
of Kinh Bac he saw this beautiful stone
stupa. The literary name of the stupa
was Bao Nghiem, which means to pay
a debt of gratitude to the master for his
strict teaching. The stupa has sophisti-
cated carvings, with flower and dragon
patterns and is decorated with small
bronze bells that tinkle in the wind.
From But Thap pagoda, we drove
6km to Dau Pagoda. Built in the 3rd cen-
tury BC, Dau Pagoda is the oldest pagoda
in Vietnam. At the end of the 4th centu-
ry, Indian monks, including Khau Da La,
came to the area to carry out missionary
work, give lectures and establish the first
Vietnamese Buddhist doctrine there.
The pagoda became the centre of
a branch of Buddhism and many vet-
eran monks from China and India came
to study, compile and translate prayers
and train apprentice monks.
Famous scholar Mac Dinh Chi en-
larged the pagoda in the 14th century
and it underwent several renovations
during the following centuries, most
significantly in the 17th-18th centuries
under the Le Dynasty.
In the pagoda’s yard is a three-
storey tower called Hoa Phong, which
was completed in the autumn of 1737
and is home to a large bell produced in
1793 during the Tran Dynasty as well as
a bronze gong produced in 1817 dur-
ing the reign of King Minh Mang of the
Nguyen Dynasty.
Through history, citadels, palaces,
and temples of Luy Lau have been de-
stroyed, but the Dau Pagoda still re-
mains. There you can consider yourself
to be at the original point of Vietnam-
ese Buddhism, where it all began, and
where it thankfully remains in peace
and serenity.
Besides its brilliant history, I was
transfixed by the ancient statues of
two ladies standing on either side of
the Buddha. Fair of face, with arched
eyebrows over burning bright eyes,
their delicate figures are pure, ele-
gant and also brimming with vital-
ity. Thanks to the skilful hands, pas-
sion and creativity of the craftsmen,
it seems their hearts are throbbing
under their silk dresses.
A lot of artists and poets have
sought inspiration from these ladies
and many hearts have been stirred by
their beauty.
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GETTING THERE
Just 30km east of Hanoi, the road to the pago-
das is in good condition, so you can get there
by car, motorbike or bicycle. Sailing and biking
along the Red River is not only a chance to en-
joy the fresh air and lovely countryside, but also
a wonderful chance to discover the historical
and cultural villages along its banks. For boat
tours leaving Chuong Duong Do wharf at 8am
daily, you can buy a ticket at Red River Tour-
ism, 42 Chuong Duong Do, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi,
Tel: 04 826 1479
Giay Do making in Dong Ho village