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THE GOLD COAST IN CENTRAL VIETNAM
Son and relocated to Vijaya, which was
known as Do Ban or Cha Ban to Vi-
etnamese, 26km north of Quy Nhon.
For the next three to four centuries,
the Cham built more than 14 towers
around the province.
Binh Dinh province is known for
its Dong Duong Buddhist College, an
important spiritual site in Indrapura,
founded by King Indravarman II in 875,
which is now in a state of ruin.
We made our own way along paths
covered with wild plants and creepers
to reach the Sang Tower, one of the
last signs of the Dong Duong Buddhist
College. Several years back, the 5-me-
ter mossy tower started falling apart
and needed to be enforced by wood to
prevent it from toppling, but just the
same, elements and time caught up
with the wood materials and eventually
it rotted and now it is in danger of col-
lapsing. It is said that a great number of
relics in the college have been lost and
thousands of the old bricks were taken
by the locals and used to build homes.
Leaving Binh Dinh, we drove to
Nha Trang to visit the Po Nagar towers.
Built in 781AD, the complex of temples
was one of the largest Hindu complexes
of the Champa kingdom. The largest
tower, Po Nagar, is dedicated to the
goddess who taught new agricultural
and weaving techniques to local people
here. Meanwhile, the Central tower is
symbol for fertility. Many childless cou-
ples visit to pray every day.
Leaving Nha Trang, we headed
south to Ninh Thuan province, home
to many old monuments of the Cham
people. First, we arrived at Hoa Lai
Tower. Built in the early 19th century,
it once consisted of three small towers
but there are only two left today.
The next stop was Poklong Garai
tower in Phan Rang - Thap Cham City
which was built on a hilltop between
the last half of the 13th century and
early 14th century and dedicated to
King Po Klong Garai. His likeness is
depicted in the sanctuary of the central
tower. Each floor and side is decorated
with ceramics and stones.
Phan Rang - ThapChamcitywas once
home to Panduranga, the ancient capital
of the southernmost states of Champa.
Thap Cham and Pham Rang district has
become a centre for the maintenance
of Cham culture. Much of the district is
occupied by Cham people where they
have rice paddies, orchards of grapes and
peaches, goats and beautiful Brahmin
cattle. Their towers are beautiful memo-
rials to their kings and queens.
The towers here are often used for
the very colourful Cham festivals, par-
ticularly Kate Festival in October, when
the local people still sacrifice a bullock
and other offerings. Other ceremonies
include Ramadan and a Rain Festival.
Apart from the incorporation of
Islam into their cultural and religious
practice, another point of cultural dif-
ference from the Vietnamese is that
their heredity line is maternal.
The animist foundation of Cham
culture, with its fire motif on the towers,
rustic traditions and very colourful cer-
emonial dress makes the Cham culture
an ideal tourist resource for Vietnam,
but one that is as yet poorly developed.
Our last stop was the beach resort
city of Mui Ne where Po Shanu Cham
towers stand. Pearched on a hilltop with
nice views of Phan Thiet’s mountains,
valleys and coastline, this complex con-
sists of the ruins of three towers, none
of which are in very good shape.
Once the hallmark of the prosperous
Champa Kingdom, which thrived in this
region from around the 7th century to
1832, Poshanu Cham towers are in the
shape of linga and yoni and dedicated
to the fire deity. There is also a tem-
ple where the buffalo deity Nandi was
worshipped. They make for a nice little
excursion out of Mui Ne.
Our ten days discovering ancient
Cham relics along the central provinces
passed quickly. Both my friend and I felt
rather sad about the state of the towers
and sculptures and how quiet these
sites are today. Visitors have slowly de-
creased in number over the years. With
restoration however, tourism could
once again come alive in the provinces
and its great history be better preserved
and appreciated.
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timeout
The
Poshanu
tower in Phan Thiet