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fair and the prices reasonable, unlike
others that can cheat you on the meter.
Peak hour traffic can jam the streets
in Hanoi, but getting around is still
easier than bigger cities like Bangkok
or Jakarta.
Mild food, simple eating
Vietnamese food bears some simi-
larities to that in Laos, in that both
focus on herbs and vegetables, but the
lack of spice and saltiness has made me
homesick for papaya salad.
The need for spicy food was a
cause for concern, but I have discov-
ered most restaurants will cater to my
tastes by adjusting some of Vietnam’s
staple meals –
pho
(noodle soup) and
bun cha
(rice noodles with grilled pork)
– by adding chilli.
Pho
is a popular breakfast and din-
ner food in Hanoi and has been an in-
tegral part of Vietnamese culture since
the early 20th century. One friend told
me you haven’t really arrived in Viet-
nam until you’ve had a bowl of
pho
–
the same as we would say about laab
and sticky rice in Laos. With pho eater-
ies plentiful across the city, it’s pretty
hard to miss out on the dish.
People are easy-going with their
eating in Hanoi, often just sitting
around the sidewalk on plastic chairs
while vendors offer food from pots on
small tables. The relaxed style of eating
is in contrast to the lifestyle of the Vi-
etnamese. Many people are so focused
on their work and study they forget
to smile and chat. Some Vietnamese
people are very friendly, but sometimes
an extra smile would go a long way to
easing a strained situation.
By contrast, life in Laos is slow and
smiles come readily; however, I worry
that will die out once the Asean Eco-
nomic Community begins and competi-
tion increases.
When the
pho
gets too much or
you want a change from the sidewalk
eating, Hanoi is also home to world-
class restaurants and an abundance of
international fast food chains.
A healthy nightlife
Hanoi’s nightlife makes form-
ing friendships a breeze. Bars line the
streets, people sit on plastic chairs hav-
ing a drink and it’s easy to open up to a
stranger and get chatting.
There’s plenty of variety in the so-
cial scene – quiet roadside bars for
a casual drink, more classy establish-
ments for a glass of wine, a hotel bar
for the real top-end drinkers, or live
music cafes for those looking for a bit
of atmosphere.
Drinking here is at a social level.
Younger locals have a single beer or a
fruit shake when they meet up. It’s dif-
ferent from the Lao way – one bottle
to warm up, 10 to get the night going.
It offers me some encouragement
to drink less, but then again, Vietnam
reportedly has one of the highest beer
consumption rates in the world. With
a population of 90 million that drinks
daily, I wouldn’t be surprised.
Most of Hanoi’s nightlife is centred
around Hoan Kiem Lake and the Old
Quarter. Bars, cafes and nightclubs in
close proximity to each other ensure a
good night out.
It is relatively safe to travel at night
and the beer is reasonably priced. Plus,
there’s the excitement of hurriedly
moving from the sidewalk into the bar
when police arrive. Local authorities
don’t allow chairs on the pavement, as
it hinders the city’s clean-up plans. That
said, it’s always amusing when, the mo-
ment the police have disappeared, the
sidewalk scene resumes as normal and
Hanoi becomes itself again.
timeout
11
EXPAT LIFE
The busy streets of Hanoi (left) and the tranquility in Vientiane